Skirt in the Kitchen
It’s my favorite to make: Cranberry relish, cranberry compote, cranberry loaf bread, cranberry anything– It takes me to a place with my parents in the kitchen with them– all over again during the holidays. Of all the things I’ve cooked, baked, made, it’s the cranberries that mean the most to me among food.
Wash and pick over cranberries to equal 6 cups in a heavy stockpot. Add 3 cups granulated sugar, 1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar, 3 cups water, 1 diced Pink Lady apple, dark raisins, gold raisins, the zest of 1 orange plus the juice, the zest of 1 lime plus the juice of half a lime, 3 slender cinnamon sticks or 2 large ones, 1 vanilla bean scraped, pumpkin pie spice, freshly ground cloves, freshly ground nutmeg, pinch of salt, freshly ground black pepper, 1 minced or finely chopped celery stalk, walnuts, 2 anise stars, and finely chopped crystalized ginger. Bring to a gradual boil, then keep on a good simmer to thicken and reduce halfway. Stir occasionally. When cooked to the right consistency, right before canning into sterilized jars or put in the refrigerator when cooled, stir in a little bit of amaretto brandy.
Good enough to eat from the jar…


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